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Author Topic: Anyone ever had their mower decks 'undercoated' with spray truck bed liner?  (Read 6101 times)

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SidecarFlip

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Which equates to...  You have to get replacement blades from Honda at an inflated price..... ;D

No thanks.  I prefer my blades from ASC 'cause I go through 2 sets of 3, every year.

I don't like gimmicks that cost more....lol
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BigRedDog

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Which equates to...  You have to get replacement blades from Honda at an inflated price..... ;D

No thanks.  I prefer my blades from ASC 'cause I go through 2 sets of 3, every year.

I don't like gimmicks that cost more....lol

Son doesn't have a big yard so not sure if he's even had to replace the original blade yet.  He takes them off to sharpen regularly.  His grass is a lot thicker than what we have so he's not 'sand blasting' his blades all the time like we end up doing.
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BigRedDog

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IMO, it's not a good idea simply because it will chip and peel from impacts under there and you cannot touch up a spray on bedliner.  Besides spray on liners aren't smooth, they have texture and that texture will snag clippings.  Just my 2 cents.

I coat my deck underside with spray on 'Slip Plate' from TSC.  Same stuff you use on grain elevators where you want the grain to slide.

It's a graphite based coating and keeps the rust away too.


At least one of the local franchises has a two step system they use and the first step ends with a very smooth surface.  So smooth that in a truck bed they have to spray the 2nd coat to make it 'slip resistant'.  I think it's Line X but not sure on that.

I use the EZ Slide from TSC:


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BigRedDog

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Ridding the smooth surface was my initial concern as well.  I have no clue from a design perspective, but I would guess the turbulence/aerodynamics required of a mower deck undercarriage to expel the clippings is part of the consideration.  If so, my guess is that the model that simulates it would be a relatively smooth surface.

I would have to agree with the comments about undercoating being to rough, or not smooth enough to allow for proper flow of clippings.  Might work to prevent rust, but it might adversely affect the flow of clippings, to the point of ruining the mower.  Keeping the underside clean has been the best way I found to keep any mower deck running properly, and rust free.

I think you guys are 'over engineering' this scenario.  This tractor / mower deck is mid 1970s International Harvester 'technology'...   Design it and add 50% strength and then beef it up some more from there.  It takes two guys to carry the front axle around on this tractor. 

But, the underside (business side) of the mower deck has rusted over the years even though I do spray it regularly with the EZ slide.  I have no idea what the prior owner (I'm told it was a one owner tractor before I got it but who knows for sure) did but with a few of the repairs I've had to do I don't think he did too much.  The deck blades were on upside down when I got it and that was my first 'clue'!!! 

I know I can't ever spray enough on there to get it back to 'gloss' smooth but I figure I can improve on what is there now. 

I'm not sure how much 'tolerances' would come into play.  Even son's Honda with two blades builds up grass underneath if you're mowing in wet grass.  But, the plastic deck seems to let it 'release' after it dries out better than my rusted steel decks do.  If any of these mowers were designed to a high tolerance it would be that one.

I do have a power washer and have a lift frame outside so I can lift either mower up to clean them but it's still time consuming plus at some point both of these decks are eventually going to rust through.  My primary objective is to prevent more rusting and the secondary is to make the cached up grass release easier whether it's still wet or dried on. 

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The Fuzz

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LOL......I am used to hearing comments about me over engineering stuff at work, but this is a first on this forum.  LOL, I love it.

Yea, very well could be but I would think that designed turbulence to "throw" the clippings strategically would be modeled in CAD on an under deck that had minimal obstructions. 
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SidecarFlip

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While we are discussing the nuances of lawnmowers, check out the  Flymow

I had one, structural fiber deck, one blade and no wheels.  Homeowners hovercraft....  The engine finally crapped out.
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BigRedDog

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While we are discussing the nuances of lawnmowers, check out the  Flymow

I had one, structural fiber deck, one blade and no wheels.  Homeowners hovercraft....  The engine finally crapped out.


I don't think this is what you were talking about but it came up when I googled 'flymow'!!!

The Fly-Mow
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BigRedDog

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This looks like what you're describing:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flymo

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Professor H

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I'm not replacing my blades now - as the mole hills have all reappeared - so after that first mowing - i'll have to do my normal change out.    I find the blades I use (john deere) last one good season,
I mow a little more than an Acre of yard - and lots of sandblasting occurs.   

Plush lawn is not the objective here!   
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SidecarFlip

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This looks like what you're describing:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flymo

Thats it.  Mine had a 2 cycle Tecumseh that finally crapped out.  Was the ultimate mulching mower, no clipping whatsoever and you could attach a rope to the handle (had rope eyes in it) so you could mow hillsides by standing on top and guiding it with the rope.  Pretty neat.
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SidecarFlip

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Most consumers don't know it but probably 90% of all lawnmower blades are made by a company in Pioneer, Ohio.  They produce blades for everyone and every brand.....  not for retail sale however.

IMO, the best place (least expensive) for replacement blades is ASC online....  Including John Deere blades.

On your issue about deck rustout, quit buying mowers with cheap stamped steel decks and get one with a real fabricated steel deck that will last a while.....lol
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livewire

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I think you guys are 'over engineering' this scenario. 

Yup.  I tend to do that.  Lmao!!


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SidecarFlip

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from BRD:....

..........I do have a power washer and have a lift frame outside so I can lift either mower up to clean them but it's still time consuming plus at some point both of these decks are eventually going to rust through.  My primary objective is to prevent more rusting and the secondary is to make the cached up grass release easier whether it's still wet or dried on................ 

Because we know each other personally, I'll refrain from being obtuse and saying....  get off your lazy arse and clean it, but I won't.  It's your deck, not mine.  My zero turn is about 15 years old now and minimal under deck rust because I pressure wash it to remove the damp caked on acidic grass clippings and it gets coated with slip plate every fall...

Like all power equipment, if you don't want to maintain it, sooner than later it shittes the bed.
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BigRedDog

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Most consumers don't know it but probably 90% of all lawnmower blades are made by a company in Pioneer, Ohio.  They produce blades for everyone and every brand.....  not for retail sale however.

IMO, the best place (least expensive) for replacement blades is ASC online....  Including John Deere blades.

On your issue about deck rustout, quit buying mowers with cheap stamped steel decks and get one with a real fabricated steel deck that will last a while.....lol


The mid 70s Cub Cadet does have a stamped steel deck but it's the heaviest stamped deck I've ever carried around.  That was back when CC was entirely International Harvester and they didn't skimp on steel anywhere on that tractor.  The front axle is solid iron ibeam.  That's why so many of the tractor pullers use this vintage of CC.

Making a pulling tractor


The Swisher is a completely fabricated deck and all heavy duty.   

Just trying to keep them nice for another 20 years or so (I hope) ;) ;) ;)
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SidecarFlip

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.....and you'll be bringing the holy deck over here to get patched and welded up............. ;D
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