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Newport-Bill

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Chainsaw Sharpening
« on: July 12, 2016, 08:51:25 PM »

Looking for a recommendation for someone who sharpens chainsaws.  The guy I used here in Newport has moved away so looking for a place that does a good job and just won't ruin the chain.  Thanks in advance.
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BigRedDog

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2016, 09:02:06 PM »

I have files for my chains and try to give them a slight touchup every other tank of gas through them.  I also have the stones and a guide that goes on a Dremel tool (I have a cordless one I can take to the woods with me if I'm going to be cutting all day) which does a pretty decent job. 



I found this one at Lowe's but if you look around you may find a better price.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Rotary-Chain-Saw-Sharpener/3009312?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-RotaryToolsAndAccessories-_-3009312:Dremel&CAWELAID=&kpid=3009312&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1074&k_clickID=fff89500-6803-4bbb-9713-a46b96fab9bc
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blue2

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2016, 09:44:17 PM »

You have more patience than me.
I haven't had any for awhile. You prob not interested in driving to Temperance either.  A guy on Jackman about across Jr Hi sharpens at home. Has a drop box. About half the price of a shop that does it..
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SidecarFlip

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2016, 10:17:30 PM »

I have 3 saws, 2 Stihl's with 20 inch bars and a Tanaka (Makita) with a 12" bar and I keep them sharp myself with a dremel like BRD has for touch ups and a Timberline carbide burr sharpener when I hit a nail or chip a tooth.  Both tools are easy to use actually.
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blue2

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2016, 10:41:46 PM »

I just might take a trip to Lowe's. I have the Dremel and rarely any use for it.
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SidecarFlip

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2016, 06:18:15 AM »

I just might take a trip to Lowe's. I have the Dremel and rarely any use for it.
 

Lowes, Menards, and your local Ace hardware sell the mounted stones for the Dremel to sharpen chains with.  Be sure to get the right diameter.  Most homeowner saws are 0.250 Low profile (low kickback) chain.  I run 0.325 Chipper and 0.404 Chipper standard chain (not low kickback) chains today nave one link plate colored with the correct color (green is lo-kickback and anything else is standard).  Really big (horsepower) commercial saws run 0.505 square tooth or skip tooth square chipper chain.  You have to hand sharpen them with a regular flat file.

You need the saw grinding attachment that Dremel sells to maintain the correct gullet angle too.  Weat gloves, sharp chain will cut you right now.
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SidecarFlip

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2016, 06:21:27 AM »

Baileys Online sells everything including the Timberline, chains, bars, replacement sprocket noses (I buy bars with replaceable noses), hand saws and arborist tools.

Thats who I deal with when I don't need stuff immediately.  If I need it now, Agri-Parts Supply on Lewis (across from Deshlers) is where I go.
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BigRedDog

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2016, 08:44:05 AM »

I just might take a trip to Lowe's. I have the Dremel and rarely any use for it.

I've always had a Dremel tool around for very light duty work but I also have a couple of air powered die grinders that I use for heavier work.  It seems like maybe I got the chain saw sharpener stuff with the battery powered Dremel as some kind of a promotion...   probably at Menard's or Lowe's. 

If you take care of a chain every day while you're using it then it never gets too bad...

unless you hit that big nail that SCF is talking about.  Stay away from trees that are in fence lines and you will eliminate most of those.  Sometimes you just have to get into a tree you know will probably have a nail or three...

or maybe even an old steel fence post encased in the stump!!!

Save your old and worn chains for those projects and then just toss them!!!

Looking for a recommendation for someone who sharpens chainsaws.  The guy I used here in Newport has moved away so looking for a place that does a good job and just won't ruin the chain.  Thanks in advance.

So far we've done everything except answer the original poster's question...

and I really don't know where to suggest.  I don't think I've sent a chain anywhere since we've lived in Monroe County.  I assume most equipment dealers either have on or have someone that will do it for them. 

I'm not so sure that they are really likely to "ruin" a chain so much as that so many chains are literally beyond saving at the point people take them to the sharpener shop and expect that person to work magic.  Many people over tighten their chains and 'stretch' them...   you really don't stretch a chain but the rivets and the rivet holes wear and allow it to appear longer than it should be. 

If you're using a saw a lot you can buy a roll of chain and make your own chains. 

When we moved out here there was a guy on Todd Road near the Ann Arbor Railroad tracks that had a sign out that he did chain saw chains and regular saw blades including carbides.  I never did take anything there and his sign was there for years.  I don't remember seeing it recently so don't know if he moved or quit doing it or if his sign just fell down :-\ :-\ :-\

I'll look real close if I see anyone out there next time I'm down that way (quite often lately).
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eriemermaid

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #8 on: July 13, 2016, 10:31:28 AM »

My husband always took his chains to a guy on South telegraph. I don't know whether it's a Monroe address or a LaSalle address.  You go south past Alban and pass the two churches on the right and then it's right after the second church, I think there's a chainsaw sign by the road or by his garage, I can't remember.
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SidecarFlip

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #9 on: July 13, 2016, 08:44:30 PM »

The problem with taking a dull chain to a shop to have it 'sharpened' which is really ground in a grinding jig, is, they take off way too much tooth.  If you do your own (with a dremel after every couple uses, a chain will last and last.

I run 2 chains with each bar and alternate the chains and flip the bar over each time.  The take off bar is filed too.  You draw file the bar to take the burr off.

Always use good bar oil, not used motor oil.  Bar oil is clingy and keeps the bar lubricated.  Motor oil don't.  The best way to tension a chain is tighten it until you can just pull the chain off the bar midway on the bar and have the drive tangs show.

In the old days, a solid nose bar had to have a looser chain.  Today's roller nose bars can run much tighter....  and when I go through 4 chains and 2 bars, I replace the drive sprocket too.

My one Stihl I bought new in 1968 and it still runs like a top (028 Farm Boss).  I just had Agri-Parts do a tune up on it.  Those guys are the best on chainsaws around here and have good prices too.  They sharpen chains too.
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SidecarFlip

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #10 on: July 13, 2016, 08:46:15 PM »

Really, there is no reason why you can't sharpen your own chains.  Even hand filing isn't that complex with a foile guide and some patience.
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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #11 on: July 14, 2016, 07:12:18 AM »

This guy does a great job cause every time I get my knives sharpened I swam to cut myself ... Lol .. He's in the Ida area . http://www.monroerapidedge.com/
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Newport-Bill

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #12 on: July 14, 2016, 09:41:40 AM »

Thanks to all who replied.  You have given me a couple of options and I found that Sells Equipment in Woodhaven also does them.

I'll look into the Dremel option but that means I will need to buy one as well.   I have a file with a guide but it just does not seem to do much when I have tried it in the past.
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blue2

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2016, 09:52:27 AM »

You may need a new file.  I found they don't last forever.  I was sharping hand tools and mower blades with a file but it was a lot of work and not much good results until i bought a new file a few weeks ago.
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BigRedDog

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Re: Chainsaw Sharpening
« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2016, 08:10:05 AM »

You may need a new file.  I found they don't last forever.  I was sharping hand tools and mower blades with a file but it was a lot of work and not much good results until i bought a new file a few weeks ago.

Easy for a file to kind of get clogged up and dull...

unless you really look close and pay attention they don't look too bad when they really are. 

And when buying them a cheap one looks an awful lot like a good one ;) ;) ;)
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